Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these stories and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
